Wednesday, July 30, 2008

nye ladakh(my ladakh)

this is my first post on my blog ,so this post certainly is decisive for me as i will write more if am finished with this and if i find it worth writing.my english s**ks so if am grammatically wrong at many places don't mind . please overlook them.as far as facts are concerned i think they are good,the contents.


i think being a ladakhi is a good thing that has happened to me.i see people from all the other communities and i really feel how blessed i am.i am really not being ethnoclastic here.its just that how naive,how pristine ,how simple my people are. that's what ,is the most, i love about them.


to be frank leh is not a city though we call it one.maybe we call it relative to the villages surrounding it.not even leh has its own natural resources.the populace is dependent on the foreign tourists for its livelihood and the handful of government jobs.earning a livelihood in leh is not very hard . just take a loan,get a taxi,and you can have two luncheon a day.what i mean is that the foreigners are a good source of income .i feel maybe its because of the easy livelihood, that the ladakhis are too good and simple.had it been harsh to earn a livelihood,i do not know how would my people have been .and i must add ,there are no ladakhi beggars in leh. its just that mendicants,most of them handicapped ,come to leh during summers from many other parts of india and the magnanimous memes(grand fathers) and abilays (grand moms) don't mind giving them money only in multiples of five.they don't think less than five rupees will do any good to them.one thing for sure is that ladakhis are very religious people.they are not god fearing, but endearing.one time when i was a kid, hh(read "his holiness") the dalai lama was supposed to visit leh and to my amazement almost every ladakhi was present for him to arrive near the metallic road. people with khataks(a piece of silk cloth to show veneration towards someone) were eagerly awaiting for him to pass from their part of road, on both sides of the road and when he arrived some of them started crying considering them self very Lucky to have been able to see him in their life time.so,the are really very religious.


the super awesome landscapes that we have , i just feel like telling it to the world.any view ,any shot taken is a perfect shot(even without canon).you don't have to worry about the land to sky ratio and others.
now if you are a young person i say get a bike and get down on the roads of ladakh varying from" metallic" to "venturing your own path".so its really awesome if you visit leh.i am really not advertising here .we get so many foreign tourists during summers that i don't have to advertise it here and i can very well prove that. when i (and you also) see advertisements saying incredible india,most of the time they show the splendid,mesmerising picturesque of gompas(buddhist monastries) and the statues of our gods and that implies they show "ladakh" to attract foreign tourists to india.there are lot more things like the natural geysers on the way towards changthang(i don't remember the exact name of the place.).well to just get a hint how beautiful leh is follow my instruction(not instructions).
1.type pangong tso or tsomoriri on your Google toolbar and click image.haha dumbfounded???...now see how awesome it will be if you see it in real .just imagine!!


short of time
i think i love blogging.!!!

Wednesday, March 5, 2008

its not every day you see your name in nyt..thk you waldman



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American Flamingo, Plate 431
American Flamingo, Plate 431


LEH JOURNAL

Modernity Tips Balance in a Remote Corner of Kashmir

By AMY WALDMAN

Published: November 25, 2004

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Tauseef Mustafa/Agence France-Presse-Getty Images
Worshipers in Western clothes pray at a statue of Buddha at the Shanti Stupa monastery north of Leh. For generations the area was almost cut off from the outside world. Now, even the monks want to be connected.

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LEH, Kashmir - The young man wore Western clothes, but he paused as he passed the prayer wheel. Then, without self-consciousness, he mounted the steps and spun, circumambulating the wheel in search of good fortune.

"I feel great because I'm doing something for my God," he said afterward.

The young man, Tsewang Tamchos, 16, is a product of Ladakh, a remote repository of Tibetan Buddhism on a high-altitude Himalayan plateau in the northern areas of Kashmir, a disputed state. But he is a product of a wider world, too: his school in Delhi, the music of Eminem, the ambitions of an upwardly mobile family whose material fortunes improve with each generation.

As in many cultures, the people of Ladakh, a sparsely populated region, live in the fold between tradition and modernity. But few places have provided as concentrated a laboratory for how modernization is tipping that balance.

In less than four decades, Ladakh has gone from being closed to the outside world to reflecting it. With each generation, the ties to the land, to the past, weaken, as options and opportunities widen. The culture and economy have moved from community-oriented to competitive, from living off the land to working for cash and spending it.

For generations, Ladakh, a barren, moonlike landscape punctuated by monasteries, was almost cut off from the outside world. No decent roads crossed the mountains. It took 16 days to get to Srinagar, the state's summer capital, across passes that soar above 13,000 feet. Its people developed a way of life attuned to the land, and in tune with one another. Nothing was wasted, wrote Helena Norberg-Hodge in her book, "Ancient Futures: Learning from Ladakh." Human waste fertilized fields; worn-out clothes patched irrigation channels.

But two milestones altered life here. In 1962, India and China, which Ladakh borders, fought a war. That brought in the Indian military - the first real outsiders - and infrastructure, merchants and more. Today, bases dot the land, and the army is the area's largest employer.

In 1974, Ladakh opened to foreign tourists for the first time, and they quickly became a pillar of the economy.

The influx of outsiders was not all bad, said Sonam Dawa, who runs the Ladakh Ecological Development Group. Ladakhis, with help from outsiders like Ms. Norberg-Hodge, a linguist, prevented Ladakh from becoming another Nepal, spoiled by an excess of hippies and drugs. At first ashamed by their backwardness, many Ladakhis came to believe that, if foreigners saw such value in their culture, language and dress, they should, too.

But the influence of outsiders has gradually leeched into Ladakh's way of life. Before, Mr. Dawa noted, the economy was not based on money. Rich and poor alike needed each other for the harvest. Now rich men can hire laborers from Nepal or poorer Indian states, and many do.

"There is a lot of competition now," he said. "Everyone is trying to have a car."

The notion, and the novelty, of competition surfaces in conversations in the car-choked streets of Leh or nearby villages.

At 35, Tashi Palzes is old enough to remember a time with no competition in her village, Phyang Puluhu, which sits on several steep terraces in the valley behind the Phyang monastery.

Today, she, like everyone, is racing against her neighbors, and sees herself as winning. She has not one, but two televisions - the second one in color - and a satellite dish on her roof. She wears not the handspun traditional dress of a Ladakhi woman but a secondhand Gap sweatshirt, bought at the Leh bazaar.

Earlier, she said, villagers did not have much and did not need much. Now they have more needs - better clothes, better education, more televisions - and thus more work. Life is simultaneously more comfortable and more difficult.

Even the Buddhist monasteries of Ladakh, which is known as Little Tibet, are grappling with modernity.

The Rizong - literally "mountain haven" - monastery, founded in 1833, sits in a narrow mountain fold with a view of the snowy Himalayas in the distance. The number of students has diminished as the economy has improved, said Chotak Lama, one of the monks, because fewer poor families need the monastery for their children. The monastic life was built around isolation, but even monks want to be connected these days. It was once a 90-minute walk from the main road to Rizong, and monks regularly made the journey with supplies on their backs. But last year, at the monks' behest, the government built a smooth road that climbs up through the mountains.

In the Leh home of Tsewang Tamchos, too, each generation brings substantial change. His grandparents live in the Nubra Valley, about 75 miles away.

They do not read or write; they farm. They grew up drinking unlimited quantities of butter tea, the salty staple of Ladakhi life.

His father, Tsering Tundup, 44, is a government forester. He says butter tea is bad for his blood pressure, and limits his intake to two cups a day. The house he has built his family in Leh has elements of tradition - the Buddhist prayer room, the wooden ceiling in the kitchen - but in most respects is modern.

His children study out of the state, Tsewang in Delhi and his 19-year-old sister, Tsering, in Chandigarh.

Their father cooks for them the lentils and rice of north India, rather than the traditional foods of Ladakh, because that is what they now prefer. They want to eat instant Maggi noodles, not the traditional thick soup, thapa.

Tsewang's parents want him to be an engineer, and he does as well, but Ladakh has few opportunities for engineers. He would like to live here, but does not know if he will.

He does plan to marry a Ladakhi woman. "I don't want to change my culture," he said. "That's the only thing I have."